Friday, June 14, 2013

Emilio Pucci's different holiday

When Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas said of his resort, ‘It’s for carry-on only,” he wasn’t kidding. It’s not just that everything was scaled down to the teensiest of proportions, perfect for handheld luggage: the abbreviated suede skirts swished with beaded fringing and traced with embroideries to mimic the house’s famous scrolls and swirls; the gilt-buttoned double-breasted blazers that grazed the waist; the print chiffon peasant blouses that looked like they weighed less than the average protein bar taken to stave off mid-flight hunger pangs. It’s that lightness and practicality was also on Dundas’s mind—though filtered through the prism of Emilio Pucci. So that means, for instance, his yellow beaded halter dress, falling in tiers of chiffon, and not offering a whole lot more coverage than an elongated tee, was designed to be also worn as a beach cover up. Dundas styled it over a vivid pink kaleidoscopically patterned swimsuit, its straps deliberately meant to slip out from under those of the dress simply because he liked the contrast.

That, in essence, is what Dundas’s Emilio Pucci is about, and what the house always has been, really: the contrast between the promise of the heady escape of warmer climes and the joyful hedonism of all-night partying, and wonderfully hot, hot, hot Dundas has made it all too. This time round, the former won out, so this was a quieter collection from him, if not in color or embellishment or pattern, then certainly in playing with bigger themes and narratives. Yet in sticking to a simple brief—make it fun, sexy, easy, colorful—Dundas caught the prevailing mood of resort, where designers have eschewed Major Statements in favor of creating realistic, wearable wardrobes of clothes. And just to drive the point home, Dundas, who has probably never met a heel he didn’t like, kept almost everything floor-level with his scuba-inspired neoprene-and-patent flats. Some of the looks came with higher versions but even those, he said, had to pass the Flat Test: He had to see how they looked worn with sandals that barely got off the ground.
Emilio Pucci:
Emilio Pucci was born in 1914 of one of Florence’s oldest noble families, and would live and work in the Pucci Palace in Florence for much of his life. He was a keen sportsman, who swam, skied, fenced, played tennis and raced cars.At the age of 17 he travelled to Lake Placid as part of the Italian team at the 1932 Winter Olympics,but did not compete.
After two years at the University of Milan, he studied agriculture at the University of Georgia in Athens, Georgia, USA, where he became a member of the Demosthenian Literary Society.In 1935, he won a skiing scholarship to Reed College in Oregon, received an MA in social science from Reed in 1937, and was awarded his doctorate (laurea) in political science from the University of Florence the same year. At Reed he was known as a staunch defender of the Fascist regime in Italy.
here are my favorite Emilio Pucci design here: